Research

Basic Blocks:
Blocks are the basic for most outfit design, with the exception of completely custom pieces. They are technical drawings illustrating the proportions of pieces accompanied by a legend. Basic blocks can be found in a book while more complicated custom blocks can be purchased. In the case of a custom garment, certain measurements must always be made:

Bust: Pass tape measure around back and under arms at height of armholes and measure in front at greatest bust measurement
Waist: Place tape measure around waist at narrowest point above hips
Hips: Place tape measure horizontally at widest point
Across back: Measure from top of one shoulder to the outher.


Nape of neck to waist: Measure from center of neck to waist (already determined)


With these measurements and the help of blocks, a seamstress makes their own patterns. Patterns are life-size pieces of the garment on tracing paper. The patterns are laid out on the fabric of choice and pinned down and traced. It is highly recommended that cheap fabric be used before the actual choice fabric to ensure that the design is proper. In this way, a "mock" garment can be sewn and adjusted so that the actual outfit doesn't have to be.

When the fabric is finally cut, appropriate seam allowances must be left for stitching. Seam allowance is extra fabric outside the line to be sewn with the purpose of preventing the fabric from falling apart and leaving room for alterations. Generally seam allowance is about 1 cm but in specific areas, such as at the shouldersor hips, extra fabric should be left in case adjustments need to be made.

Suits:


Men's suits come in many different styles. In terms of the overall design and fit, there are four major categories: British, European (Italian), American, and Contemporary. British suits are moderately tapered around the waist with minimal shoulder padding. European suits are strongly tapered at the waist and heavily padded. They are more contoured and therefore improve the appearance. On the other hand, American suits have minimal tapering and moderate shoulder padding. They tend to look more relaxed. For prom, a tuxedo or a suit is worn, with the former being more formal and the latter more easygoing. Tuxedo patterns do not vary greatly from business suit patterns. The major differences between suits and tuxedo's is the details. Tuxedo buttons and lapels are covered in satin. The pants have a roughly 1" strip of satin along the seam. They are worn with tuxedo dress shirts and either a vest and tie or cummerbund and bowtie. It is common for the vest to match the color of the date's dress.

Pockets:
Pockets on a suit jacket are generally either fake or stitched closed, since placing items in the pockets tends to misshape the suit. The flap over the hole is called a welt. In many cases, the lining tends to show when the pocket is at rest, but in higher quality suits this is unnoticeable.

Sewing a Suit:

• Always press each seam after it’s been made for the most accurate professional suit


• Start with a basic pattern, modify to fit. Start on a cheap fabric beforehand to see how it will fit. Cut out all necessary pieces leaving room for seam allowance (1 cm or 2-3 along adjustable seams and arms.


• Sew the back pieces first. Next, sew the front to the back at the shoulders


• Sew in the sleeves. sew the sleeves and the side seams at the same time.
  

Fabric Types:

Fabric for the suit should be lightweight since the event is held during spring. wool is generally used for most suits. Satin embellishments will be added as well.
Fabric for the gown is more varied. Silk satin is a common fabric with a smooth, lustrous surface and is available in different weights. Taffeta, much like silk satin, is smooth with a crisp plain-weave silk fabric. It has very fine ribbing and a lustrous finish. The downfall is that it creases easily. Organza, commonly used for the skirt portion, is a fine, transparent, stiff plain-weave fabric. Also used for the skirt is tulle. Tulle is a mesh-like lining fabric made from nylon. It works to bring volume to the skirt. It is too abrasive to be worn against skin, so a liner is necessary.